The English Gentleman Returns: Heritage style

Making a slow comeback over the last year, high street retailers have now fully embraced the ‘English Gentleman look.’ Re-introduced by numerous designers in Milan fashion week over a year ago, Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta and Burberry showcased a more modern take on this trend, bringing it into the 21st century.

Recently, shows such as hit ITV series Downton Abbey have had a huge influence on this look and celebrities alike. Both Ben Affleck and George Clooney were recently snapped looking very dapper at this year’s BAFTA’s, showing off head-to-toe styling accompanied by very impressive beards.

Another fan of this look is Alex Turner from indie-rock band, Artic Monkeys. He is known to experiment with style and often is seen adding his quirky take on the heritage trend. Smart-wear is no longer just for special occasions, it’s time to pull out the Sunday bests from your wardrobe.

Men are just as fashion conscious as women and stepping into the world of the English gent will truly help to update your style-stakes and bring you right on trend. Right now almost all high street shops are doing their own take on this style and completely doing it justice. Topman, River Island and Burton are all, to name a few, where you can get your hands on key heritage clothing items.

Fashion blogger and store manager at Banbury’s New Look, Dave Hill says: “I have always been a fan of dressing a bit smarter and have always loved the whole ‘British’ thing.

“New Look at the moment has a heritage look which to be fair is pretty impressive and very reasonable. Topman are stocking genuine ‘Harris Tweed’ blazers and matching waistcoats which I would highly recommend to any man out there.

“As far as splurging on this look, I will always choose Holland Esquire. Founder Nick Holland’s tweed car coats and blazers are both stunning and eccentric!” He said.

Dressing as an English gent isn’t for the faint hearted and it is important to run the style all the way through your image. With Dave’s advice this look is easily achievable; “Fabric is all important to pulling off this look – imagine luxurious tweeds and silk, teamed with good quality cotton shirts and dark denim. 

“The five wardrobe staples I would recommend are; a tweed blazer, a classic formal shirt (Oxford or Penny collar style), a decent pair of un-ripped skinny jeans rolled up above the ankles, a good pair of tan brogues (I personally love Loake’s footwear) and a contrasting pocket square or bow-tie,” he added.

More than often the heritage style is teamed with varying styles of facial hair – a feature that can help to complete your image. With fundraiser Movember just out of the way and charity event Decembeard happening now, there is no better time to tackle this trend. 

Founder of Captain Fawcett, home to a delectable range of first class gentleman grooming products, Richie Finney says: “I think the style of experimenting with facial hair has been a bit of a comeback for four/five years, but the last couple of years has seen a real interest in beards. Now when actors are collecting Oscars, they all seem to have a beard. It’s one of the few things a man can do that a woman can’t; it’s an expression of virility.

“Fifty to sixty years ago if you had a beard or moustache you’d be classed as on the outside of society – non-conformists, bikers or poets perhaps. Everyone had to conform, but having a beard was a way of expressing individuality. How long the trend will last – I’m not sure, but it’s all fun whilst it lasts,” he added.

Their products have grown increasingly popular with professional make-up artists on TV and film sets. Poirot’s famous moustache, although made with yak hair, is styled using Captain Fawcett’s ‘gentleman stiffener.’ His wife Christine Greenwood, key hairstylist on Downton Abbey, won an Emmy Award in 2012 for her work on the show, using the Captain’s products. And if that wasn’t enough, both Jude Law and Aaron Taylor Johnson used their products for film Anna Karenina in 2012.

Grooming is just as key as the clothes with this trend so make sure to update not only your wardrobe guys, but your bathroom cabinet as well. 

The ethical clothing industry: Recycling and buying - Oxfam Lincoln

“At all times we are trying to achieve a balance between offering a bargain for our customers, and respecting the value of items given to us by donors; who obviously want us to make as much as possible to continue Oxfam’s work.”

http://www.facebook.com/OxfamBookshopLincoln

http://www.facebook.com/OxfamBookshopLincoln

With nearly half of the donations Oxfam Lincoln receive being clothing or accessories, you would think that people would be much more aware of the bargain fashion pieces they could find by shopping at charity shops such as this one. Not only a bargain for the customer, but raising profit for the charity and helping to make a change on a larger scale. 

Ethical buying and the recycling of clothes is not a subject that often gets publicised, but it is well worth looking into. I spoke to deputy manager at Oxfam Lincoln, James Grigg, to find out about the ‘ins and outs’ of the charity and its link with fashion and ethics.

For a highly student populated city, I was interested to find out just how much custom is from the younger generation, therefore showing how aware the students are of ethical shopping in charity stores. Lincoln hasn’t got the full range of popular high street shops, for example they are missing stores like Zara and H&M, but it can offer a wide range of boutiques and charity shops –yet it is the boutiques that are more heard of. 

James says: “I would guesstimate about half of our customers might be “younger”. Lincoln is a very youthful city with two universities now, and students always need to stretch those loans –Coming to Oxfam is a great way to get quality clothes cheap; we get a surprising amount of brand new clothing donated, and sometimes get corporate donations too, so you can find some real treasures and great bargains. We also often get students and younger people in looking for quirkier items for fancy dress, or drama students looking for costumes.”

Oxfam ultimately aims to ‘fight poverty at its roots’ and the work they carry out and the profits they earn, all go towards helping make a change towards this. They have a respected reputation to uphold, so not only is their charity work of the highest standard, so is their work within their stores across the UK. 
This means that any donations they receive to the shop are vital – within reason, any item donated can be recycled and either sold in store, ‘up-cycled’, or passed on to deprived countries. Clothing is one of the most common donations that Oxfam receives and they ensure that they make the most out of everything.

James says: “As far as clothing donations go, we pretty much take anything; even if we determine we can’t sell something in the shop, Oxfam has great systems in place to make sure we can make the most out of any clothing donated. We are slightly more discriminating with other sorts of donations; we do not take furniture or plug-in electronic items because we are not equipped to deal with them. And we don’t take cassette tapes and most magazines because we struggle to sell them.

“The first thing we do with donations is sort through to see what we can sell in the shop. What’s left is sent to Oxfam’s processing hub, ‘Wastesaver’,and they sort it again. Something like 20% of what goes to Wastesaver is picked out to be sent to Frip Ethique, an Oxfam social Enterprise in Sengal. Local people there are employed to sort what they get, which is then sold on to traders, so they can sell in local markets. So not only does that clothing find a new use, but it also helps employ people, and encourages people to develop their own incomes by developing their own businesses.

“We actually ran a campaign this year to try and encourage donations of bras to the shops, specifically so they could be sent on to Frip Ethique, where they are the most valuable item of clothing they can pick out. Bras are complex to manufacture, and the tailoring industry locally isn’t set up to produce them yet - even damaged bras find a market there, where people repair them and sell them on.

“The rest of what is sent to Wastesaver is either picked out to be sold in the UK at Oxfam’s Festival shops, or is sorted into fabric types and sold in bulk as fabric. So at every stage Oxfam make some sort of income from clothing donations!”

It is clear that not only shopping in the store, but if you were to make a clothing donation, that it goes a long way to helping people in deprived countries. Such a small gesture can mean the world to someone else – it can help give them a better way of life; opening up business opportunities through Oxfam’s programme’s or generally contributing to making their life that little bit easier. Right at the start of processing the donations, Oxfam look into what they can do with the items, what the best thing to do with them is and whether they will help make a difference.

Ethical shopping is something that more people should be doing and something maybe high street shops could look into helping out with. ‘Fashion’ is a big industry and just a small percentage of any profit the shops make, if it were to be contributed to charities such as Oxfam, would make a huge difference. 

You have the best of both worlds knowing that you’ve found yourself a bargain and that, that bargain item has helped to make a difference somewhere in the world. 

James says: “It makes a huge difference! Clothing is at the core of Oxfam shops across the country, and thus helps us raise many thousands of pounds every year. There is also a big environmental impact; donating clothes to charities effectively extends the life of any given garment; which means it isn't rotting in landfill, and virgin materials haven’t had to be grown, harvested, and processed, to make a new replacement.

"We take this even further with our relationship with Marks and Spencer’s and the ‘shwopping’ scheme; which encourages M&S customers to donate an item of clothing to Oxfam whenever they buy something new. This has been a great source of donations for us, but it goes even further - once Oxfam has sorted the donations, M&S are now buying back some of the donated fabrics to make brand new clothing from the recycled materials!"

Follow Oxfam Lincoln on twitter: @OxfamLincoln

Androgyny in the modern ages.

Androgyny: “neither clearly masculine nor clearly feminine in appearance,”


As fashion is evolving, more and more looks are being put together and people in general are more experimental with the clothes they wear. 

An androgynous look is always looked upon as the female wearing male style clothes… But how often does this happen the other way around? We’re not talking cross-dressing, but buying clothes meant for the opposite gender for fashion purposes. 

To get an idea of what the public thought about androgyny in the modern ages I carried out a survey and here is what I found.

Over ninety-six per cent of the people I asked had witnessed someone wearing clothes meant for the opposite sex and only six per cent of these people were bothered by having seen this. 
In this day and age experimenting with fashion seems to be accepted as the norm. However, it only seems to be acceptable if it is females wearing male clothes, and not the other way around. 

Just because a man may be wearing a female t-shirt or jacket for example, doesn't mean it will always be obvious that they are. So surely this means that ‘cross-dressing’ in this respect is acceptable?


An item of clothing is an item of clothing – it shouldn't matter who it was intended for, especially if amazing outfits can be created by ignoring this. 

When asking the public whether they would consider buying or wearing something from the opposite gender we received a completely mixed reaction… The majority, over 35% said they would and most of the rest of them said they maybe would, they hadn't really thought about it or that they already do. Only a small 9% said that they wouldn't consider it!


When looking at Lincoln's high street it is clear to see that although it has most of the popular high street stores, they are quite small in comparison to other cities, and there is a definite lack of male shops. However, the people in Lincoln don’t seem to be too bothered by this, with the majority of people saying that the lack of shops wouldn't make them go and shop in stores of the opposite sex.


Androgyny on the high fashion catwalks often show women in more slick, tailored outfits; made up of trouser suits, shorts, and over-sized shirts, to create an edgy and strong look. 

Although on a day to day basis, fashion androgyny could be looked at from a totally different angle – it could simply mean the mixing of male clothes with female clothes to create an outfit that is perceived as ‘fashionable’….Well, nearly 83% of the people I spoke to thought it either worked or sometimes worked, so maybe we have a new trend upon us.

The Ever Changing Fashion Industry

‘Fashion should express the place, the moment... Fashion, like opportunity, is something that has to be grabbed by the hair’ - Coco Chanel.

We live in a society where it is socially acceptable to express yourself through your choice of clothing. But with the ever changing ‘look of the season’ fast coming and going straight back out of fashion, is the quick paced fashion industry ever going to come to a halt? 

As far back as we can remember, fashion has played a massive part in the way in which a man or woman chooses to dress. Everyone can picture the style of clothing from previous periods when asked, and the industry continues to not falter in providing for its consumer.

Coming into the 21st century with new looks coming out what seems to be every month; it appears the fashion industry is at an all-time high. To be ‘in fashion’ has started to become more popular in modern time. As people start to experiment with new looks, so does the fashion industry.

Fashion journalist Sofia Bak says; “There's a lot of pressure on designers to create something new. Influential fashion industry professionals, like A-list press, have seen it all, so it's easy to bore them and get a bad review. The consumer naturally demands something fresh, not many people want the same thing they're wearing now, only newer.

“New designs will be created every season, or at least a designer will attempt to create something new. Some trends leave quickly because they're too obvious and date easily and no-one wants to look ‘soooo last season’. However, more classic ones will stick around until another strong trend takes over. For instance, skinny jeans have stuck around for years, not seasons.”

Fashion continues to evolve, not only with the clothes that are brought out, but the way in which people have access to them. It becomes questionable as to whether the consumer will continue to purchase new trends at the fast rate that they come out, or whether the fashion industry has become too rapid and will start to lose people’s interest in following fashion, as it changes so quickly.

Sofia said: “Of course people will continue to follow fashion trends, they always have. Fashion is the fun part of life and a form of escapism for many. Trends are a dual phenomenon. On one hand they're hated because people don't like to think of themselves as fashion victims, and we do know that they're created by the marketing industry, rather than the fashion industry, to sell a lot of product every season - simply because it's ‘in’. But, on the other hand, trends are a form of inspiration and allow for creativity within your look.”

The industry opens up a huge gap for people to be able to be flexible with what they wear. What is classed as fashionable to one person may not be to another. So although fashion is constantly changing and evolving, ‘trends’ as such only play a part as a guidance if you like. They are there to help people create a look from a base idea.”

Sofia said: “London, especially, frowns upon trends. We are trailblazers, not followers. People who follow trends are already behind, because as you know by the time the trend that we've seen on the runway makes it into stores, it's already been worn so many times, it's almost like you're copying someone. The trend is - there is no trend.

“It's much better to wear something that flatters your body-type and skin/hair colour, something you feel confident in, something that you love and makes you happy, even if it is dated. It's your confidence that makes you beautiful, not trends.”

When looking at high street fashion stores, it is especially clear that there is a fast rotation with the stock that comes in. Providing new trends for customers, as well as key, basic items, which will stay in fashion as long as they are needed - will help to keep people interested. 

With the fashion industry constantly changing and moving in full circles year by year, it is hard to keep up with what is supposedly classed as ‘in’ or not.

As the seasons have started to change over, new styles for spring/summer 2012 are already hitting the shops. Key pieces are coming into play with the influences from the industry’s biggest calendar events of the year. With New York and London Fashion Week just completed, eager fashion lovers are looking forward to what the industry has to offer for autumn/winter later this year.

Like Coco Chanel said, ‘Fashion, like opportunity, is something that has to be grabbed by the hair’ – there is no point in worrying over what everybody else is doing trend wise; fashion is the opportunity for you to express yourself, not everybody else.

Questions & Answers with Fashion Journalist Sofia Bak.

As part of an assessment for my University work I had to write a magazine feature - I chose the topic "The Ever Changing Fashion Industry". Below is the question and answer style interview I did with the lovely Sofia as part of it...

- What's your opinion on how fast new looks come in and out of fashion? And do you think people will still continue to follow fashion, even though it changes so often?

There's a lot of pressure on designers to create something new. Influential fashion industry professionals, like A-list press, have seen it all, so it's easy to bore them and get a bad review. In addition, the consumer naturally demands something fresh, not many people want the same thing they're wearing now only newer...unless you're Diane Pernet, whom I sometimes channel when I go through periods of wearing nothing but my favourite black t-shirt, black jeans and black boots. But for everyone else, new designs will be created every season, or at least a designer will attempt to create something new. Some trends leave quickly because they're too obvious and date easily, and no-one wants to look "soooo last season". 
However more classic ones will stick around until another strong trend takes over. For instance, skinny jeans have stuck around for years, not seasons...

Of course people will follow fashion trends, they always have. Fashion is the fun part of life and a form of escapism for many. Trends are a dual phenomenon, however, on one hand they're hated because people don't like to think of themselves as fashion victims, and we do know that they're created by the marketing industry, rather than fashion industry...to sell a lot of product every season - simply because it's "in". But on the other, trends are a form of inspiration and allow for creativity within your look. 
Personally I dress however I want, but  once in a while I'll see a trend and think - wow, I didn't think to do/wear that, it looks great...and I'll go out and buy whatever it is. last season I was obsessing over python dresses and shirts as well as anything galaxy...this season I dip dyed my hair blue, it was just a great idea for a change I've been meaning to make. 

- Where do you see the fashion industry heading in the next couple of years? Do you see the way it runs changing, or do you think it will continue in the same way?

It will probably evolve in some ways, like anything else...for instance it's evolving a lot in terms of technology right now. The industry has hugely submerged into social media, everyone from Hilary Alexander to Melanie Rickey are tweeting from front row...so you can find out what's happening on the runways as soon as it happens, not 3 months later when Vogue comes out. 
There's also a relatively new phenomena of fashion film, Gareth Pugh has done a fantastic one, and I just saw a great one by his ex-protege Ada Zanditon. Diane Pernet now has a respected fashion film competition which turned into a festival in Barcelona. 
There are new technologies such as fabrics that filter air to make it cleaner as you walk. I met a designer named Jonathan Hawke at fashion week who is working on a concept of something which will download his designs and digitally create shoes in the comfort of your own home. It's mind-blowing. I will be interviewing him soon. 
Personally, I'm hoping that the fashion industry will change faster towards more eco-friendly materials...because it's contributing to a lot of harm in the world. But, I think it's a well oiled machine that will stay pretty much the same for a while, as far as doing business goes. 

- What are your favourite new trends for spring/summer 2012?

Spring/Summer 2012 are current trends, even though it's not even spring yet. The NEW trends are the ones we're watching right now in world runways - Autumn/Winter 2012. I think everyone in the fashion industry gets asked this question by everyone who interviews them. So what I'm trying to say is - I wouldn't ask it, because everyone else does and it's going to be answered in lots of other media anyway. 
I'd rather the press talked about something more important, for instance your question about innovation was great. We should talk about how we can improve the industry, make it cleaner, more ethical. This is not a criticism, by the way, but advice. 
I'm going to say this about trends however - there's a lot of them that get recycled every year - florals, brights, prints, lace etc. London especially, frowns upon trends, we are trailblazers, not followers, people who follow trends are already behind, because as you know...by the time the trend that we've seen on the runway makes it into stores, it's already been worn so many times, it's almost like you're copying someone. In fact I wrote an article about last years trends stating that the trend is - there is no trend. 
We were obviously boycotting trends in London, the designers were showing so many different things it was hard to distinguish one. If you think about it, the most distinguished London designers don't show trendy things - McQueen (original), Westwood, Charlie le Mindu, Louise Gray, Meadham Kirchhoff - they are the reason world press travels here, and they are fashion troublemakers, if you will.
Like I said, trends can be fun, but I wouldn't care so much about what's next, unless you really love it, of course. New York just showed a prominent trend - black and navy, and already all the London street stylers that I was shooting for Italian Vogue were wearing it. I couldn't even photograph them because it was the same jacket on everyone. Who wants to see the same thing over and over again on photos? 
I would almost be embarrassed to dress like everyone else. What are we wearing, a uniform? It's much better to wear something that flatters your body-type and skin/hair colour, something you feel confident in, something that you love and makes you happy...even if it is dated...it's your confidence that makes you beautiful, not trends. 

(read the article containing this interview in my next blog)

Urban Glamour

Ever since Chanel launched their 2010 autumn/winter fall catwalk, faux fur has hit high street shops all over the country, fast becoming part of one of this season’s biggest trends; ‘Urban Glamour’. 

The trend involves a mixture of fur and winter knits with a twist of leather or lace to give it, its gritty, glamorous edge; therefore not being for the faint-hearted! 

If however you wanted to pull part of this look into your wardrobe, and you’re not so daring, try taking one of the key pieces like an over-sized knit jumper and glam it up in your own way; it’s all about making key winter essentials look glamorous for the festive season.

No longer is there a need to have hype around real fur being worn, as there are so many beautiful and bargain faux-fur pieces in the shops at the moment; which is great for you fashion worshipers. It is vital you invest in key pieces from this trend to keep you cosy and glam this winter, as the look will be easily transferable into Autumn/Winter 2011. 

Whatever the occasion, from relaxed strolls through the park to a glam night out with the girls ‘Urban Glamour’ is the look of the moment to get you standing out from the crowd!